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Version for printing. Korjenevskaya Peak, 7105 m. Mountaineering, climbing and expeditions to Pamir mountains

EXP 03. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105m), Pamir

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Photo 1. View on Korjenevskaya Y. Peak from Pamirian firn plato (Communism Peak), Pamir, Tajikistan

Photo 1. View on Korjenevskaya Y. Peak from Pamirian firn plato (Communism Peak), Pamir, Tajikistan

Korjenevskaya Peak is situated in the northern side of the Academy of Science Ridge, 13 km. far from Communism peak. The peak was discovered by Russian geographer N.Korjenevskiy on 23 August, 1910 and called after Evgeniya Korjenevskaya (the wife of the explorer). Since 1927 name Korjenevskaya peak appeared officially on geographical maps. The first successful ascent to the peak was done in 22 August 1953. The group consisted of 8 alpinists from Leningrad under the leadership of A.Ugarov reached the top from the North from Korjenevskaya glacier climbing along the Northern range. Now there are about 10 different complexity known routes to the top. The simplest, popular and safe way goes along the South ridge from the Korjenevskiy glacier.

Day 1 Arrive in Dushanbe, have accommodation in hotel
Day 2 Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
Day 3 Preparation day.
Day 4 Acclimatization climb Vorobiova Peak, up to the camp at 5300 m.
Day 5 Climb the summit of Vorobiova Peak. (5690 m). Descend to Base Camp.
Day 6 Rest day.
Day 7 Preparation day.
Day8 Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m.)
Cross over Moskvina Glacier and ascent along the good trail to advanced BC (5100 m) (6-8 hs) from where you carry on to Camp 1 (5300 m). We usually use 2 ropes for climbing between 4800m and 5100m. Camp (5100 m.) - Camp (5300 m.) The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300m at moraine. From the Camp 5300m, if visibility is good, one can see the entire path up to the summit. 5100m to 5300m two more 2 ropes.
Day 9 Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Day 10 Climb to (6100m-6400m).
Descend for a night stay to Camp 2. From 5800m to 6100m we use 4 ropes.
Day 11 Descend to BC.
Days 12-14 Rest day.
Day 15 Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Day 16 Climb to Camp 3 (6400 m)
Day 17 Ascend to the summit 7105 m and descend to Camp 3 or Camp 2.
The route follows on the snow crest towards the top. Enjoy astounding view of thousand summits with most magnificent and impressive one - Communism Peak…
Day 18 Descend to Base Camp
Days 19-27 Reserve day in case of bad weather or climb to Communism peak.
Day 28 Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 29 Departure from Dushanbe.



Photos. EXP 03. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105m), Pamir


Photo 2. Pre-apical ridge of Korjenevskaya Peak, Pamir, Tajikistan

Photo 2. Pre-apical ridge of Korjenevskaya Peak, Pamir, Tajikistan

Photo 3. View to Korjenevskaya Peak from the BC 1 on the flank of Communism Peak

Photo 3. View to Korjenevskaya Peak from the BC 1 on the flank of Communism Peak

Photo 4. 6100 camp on slope of Korjenevskaya Peak, Pamir, Tajikistan

Photo 4. 6100 camp on slope of Korjenevskaya Peak, Pamir, Tajikistan


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Please look at another links in category Mountaineering and expeditions :

• Communism (Somoni) Peak (7495m), Pamir
• EXP 01. Lenin Peak (7134m), Pamir
• EXP 04. Muztag-Ata peak (7546m), Kun-Lun
• EXP 02. Pobeda Peak (7439m), Tien-Shan
• EXP 02. Khan-Tengri Peak (7010m), Tien-Shan
• Lenin Peak (7134 m) and Muztag-Ata Peak (7546 m) in one bunch
• EXP 07. 'Snow leopard' project
• Energy Peak, 5105 m
• Chimtarga Peak, 5489 m


Comments:

The comment has added: alpinist master
Date: 2009-09-25

korjenevskaya peak is not as high as communism, and easier, i advise to go there better.



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