EXP 04. Muztag-Ata peak (7546m), Kun-Lun

Photo 1. View on Muztagata Peak from Karakul lake

Muztagh Ata (7 546m) is second-highest summit of Chinese Pamir situated in Kun-Lun Range on the territory of Xinjiang National Autonomous Region of China. In Turkic languages "Muztagh Ata" means "Ice Mountain`s Father". The huge snow-covered mountain massif raised beetling over the Karakul Lake attracts mountaineers all over the world. The route to the top is not technically difficult with its slopes of 25°-30° steepness, yet it demands from climbers to be in high physical conditions. Muztagh Ata is nearly perfect for continuous and most enjoyable ski downhill from the top. First ascent to the Muztag Ata had been made in 1956 by joint China-Soviet mountaineering expedition.

Ascending routes.

Section 1. Base Camp (4,450 m ) to Camp 5,200 m. Uphill on a good path on the rib of the rocky ridge. Above 5,000m ridge may well be snow-covered. Having set up a small camp at 4,800m you carry on on skis on a deep snow through right-hand sided couloir.

Section 2. Camp 5,200m to Camp 6,200 m. Uphill on a snow-covered slope to the small plateau at 5,400m. Turn left to the snow/ice crest and carry on along the left side of the crest up to the altitude of 5,600m. Here a zone of big crevasses begins. Cross the zone following a big snow gully in its middle part and then continue ascending on a steep snowy slope up to a wide snow ridge at the altitude close to 6,000m. Turn left and go on along the ridge to a small snow basin at 6,200m.

Section 3. Camp 6,200m to Camp 6,800 m. Uphill on the right-hand side slope of the basin and then on a wide and not steep snow fields over several take-offs.

Section 4. Camp 6,800m to Summit (7,546m)Ascent on a wide snow slopes.

Day 1	Arrival at Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Hotel.
Day 2	Transfer to Naryn. 10-12 hours; night in yurts.
Day 3	Drive to the Torugart Pass, 3-4 hours; crossing the Kirghizstan-China border; drive to Kashgar, 3 hours; night at hotel.
Day 4	Drive to Karakul Lake and then to Subashi, 4-5 hours; walk with pack-camels to the Muztagh Ata Base Camp (BC, 4450m), 3-4 hours.
Day 5	Acclimatization ascents at the area around the Base Camp.
Days 6-19	Ascent to Muztag Ata.
Days 20-21	Reserve days for bad weather. Day 22 Base Camp - Subashi - Kashgar, night in hotel.
Day 23	Day in Kashgar, excursions, shopping.
Day 24	Drive Kashgar - Torugart Pass, crossing the border, arrival to Tash-Rabat, night in yurt.
Day 25	Drive Tash-Rabat - Bishkek, night in hotel.
Day 26	Transfer hotel - airport, departure from Bishkek.

Photos. EXP 04. Muztag-Ata peak (7546m), Kun-Lun

Photo 2. Massif of Muztagata Peak is reflecting on Karakul lake	Photo 3. View on Muztag-Ata Peak from South-West	Photo 4. View on Muztagata Peak from Karakul lake

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